France—Over the Spine of the Alps
My wife Liz and I have based ourselves in Bourg-Saint-Maurice, about 12 miles south of Mont Blanc in the French Alps. This ski resort town is a perfect summer starting point for motorcycle tours to several spectacular mountain passes in the area. Today, we’re heading to explore the Little St. Bernard Pass, which starts in Bourg-Saint-Maurice and climbs to 7,178 feet as it crosses the France-Italy border before descending to Morgex on the Italian side. The pass is named after the Petit St. Bernard Hospice, founded in the 11th century by St. Bernard of Aosta. The famous St. Bernard dog was originally bred for rescue work by monks at a different hospice at the Great St. Bernard Pass, on the other side of the Aosta Valley into Switzerland.
In 2018, La Rosière hosted the 11th stage of the Tour de France. The town’s theme color is pink, and they painted sections of the route accordingly. It’s a lovely August morning, and we’re having breakfast outside the Aux Délices de Tarentaise bakery in Bourg-Saint-Maurice. Around us, runners are passing through for the annual 92-mile, two-day TDS (Sur les Traces des Ducs de Savoie) race. After finishing our quiche Lorraine and Chausson aux Pommes, we mount up for the ride into Italy.
The Ride
We leave town heading north on D1090 and are almost immediately on the pass road. The hairpins start right away, initially gentle as we climb through homesteads and silver birch-lined avenues toward denser woodland. Soon, the twisties tighten, and signs point to Col du St. Bernard and La Rosière station. After a series of long zig-zags through fields, the forest grows denser. Eight switchbacks later, we pass the biker-friendly Hôtel Belvédère, covered in motorcycle ads.
A narrow road breaks away to the right, descending steeply to Montvalezan—its surface painted bright pink. A mural at the top depicts the old border checkpoint manned by Italian and French guards. Though a detour, we ride it up and down for the unique view. The pink paint commemorates the 2018 Tour de France, and the road remains a special climb for cyclists. La Rosière’s name comes from the French word *rose* (pink), and the theme is everywhere: pink road signs, a giant pink elephant statue, and oversized pink flower pots lining the main street.
Back on the pass road, a few more hairpins bring us to La Rosière, built in traditional Savoyard style with wood, stone, and slate. In 1985, it became one of the first French ski resorts allowing cross-border skiing into Italy. The town is upscale, clearly shaped by ski tourism.
Motorcycles & Gear
- 2022 Kawasaki Versys 1000
- 2022 Yamaha Tracer 9
- Helmet: Shoei Neotec
- Jacket: Held Cool System Leather, Helite airbag vest
- Pants: ProBiker Textile
- Boots: Alpinestars New Land Gore-Tex
- Gloves: Vanucci Viscolab
- Luggage: SW Motech tankbag
- Comm system: Sena 50S